At the tip of the môle Jean Réveille, le Phare Rouge has stood watch since 2001. Fifteen metres of cylindrical masonry, painted red, a faithful replica of the original lighthouse built in 1866. That first tower captivated Paul Signac, who painted it into his canvases, before German troops destroyed it in 1944 during the Liberation landings.
Rebuilt identically after the harbour renovation in 1999, it still blinks its halogen beacon, guiding vessels toward the port's 800 moorings. You can walk out freely along the long jetty, in the wake of fishermen and yachts that pass but never quite mingle. Off-season, it's a quiet refuge. July and August, it's the relentless parade of superyachts threading the channel.
The view is worth it: on one side, the harbour and its packed masts; on the other, the bay opening onto the gulf. On clear days, you can make out the snow-capped Alps on the horizon. The lighthouse itself isn't open inside (it's an automated beacon), but the walk along the môle is reward enough. Especially at sunset, when the light sets the red facade ablaze and the terraces along quai Suffren begin to stir.