It starts without ceremony. From the rond-point du Mémorial, at the upper edge of the village, the path plunges straight into the trees and begins to climb. Shaded by cork oaks and stone pines, the slope is unambiguous from the first hundred metres. A few steps cut into the rock, a root or two to mind, and then the canopy opens just enough to tease what's coming.
At the top, les Moulins de Paillas. Five were built here over the centuries. The one standing today was reconstructed in 2002, faithfully copied from a 1630 plan. Behind it, the stone base of a second mill sits in the dry grass, half-forgotten. On certain Sunday mornings in late May, late June or late September, when the wind decides to cooperate, the sails turn again. The ridge view is the whole point: the gulf of Saint-Tropez to the north, the agricultural plain of Ramatuelle and l'Escalet to the south, and on a clear day, the Îles d'Or hovering on the horizon.
The return follows the piste des Fanaux, a wide track that winds back down through the cork oak forest with far less tarmac than the alternative route down. That matters, especially in season. Bring water. The section past the mill is fully exposed to the sun. The paths are not waymarked, so download a GPS track before you go. In summer, always check current access restrictions for Var forest zones before setting out: this whole hillside carries a high fire risk.
Parking near the rond-point du Mémorial, with a few additional spaces further up the lane. Avoid the chapel car park, which is often closed during school hours.
