Salama

Down a narrow lane behind place de la Mairie, Salama slips under the radar. Floor cushions, brass lanterns, the smell of spices hitting you the moment you open the door. The lamb tajine with prunes is worth the walk alone, the pigeon pastilla arrives reinvented, and on Fridays the couscous tastes like someone's been thinking about it all week. The family running the place comes from Fès. They pour fresh mint tea at the end of the meal, the kind that tells you the evening is done, properly. Go when you want dinner to feel like something other than the usual terrace near the boats.