La Table du Mas de Chastelas

Take the road toward Gassin, vineyard walls sliding past, cross the small bridge, and you arrive at a 17th-century mas buried deep in umbrella pines. The chef here is starred, but he chose to stay quiet about it: Louis-Arnaud. Roasted Bresse pigeon with lavender. Risotto with aged Parmigiano. Fig tarts from the house orchard. Ask for dinner on the terrace under the olives. Cicadas sing until around ten at night, then silence drops like a stone. That's the thing about it.